To begin follow the steps in How to Set Up a Rim on Your Basket to prepare for the following tutorial.
What is lashing?
Lashing is a process of “whip stitching” around the rim to hold it in place. To do this the basket weaver uses a long length of reed that is approximately a half of the width of the rim reed or smaller. Often this reed is either a flat reed or a flat oval reed.
Or this can also be a piece of round reed, if used on small baskets.
The long length of the reed is soaked in water to make it pliable. Then it is threaded around the layers of the rim and the last row of the basket to secure the rim to the basket with a whip stitch. These whip stitches are continued all the way around the rim holding everything snuggly in place and securing all aspects of the basket neatly together.
The goal in doing the lashing on the rim is to pull the lashing as tight as you can without breaking the lashing reed. Reed shrinks slightly as it drys. Pulling each stitch tight as you go will avoid having large gaps in the rim once the basket is completely dry.
Two types of lashing
Basic lashing
Basic lashing can also be called a whip stitch or single lashing. This is when lashing is done going in one direction and then tied off.
See How to do Basic Lashing on a Basket Rim for a tutorial on how to do basic lashing.
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Cross-stitch lashing or X-lashing
A cross-stitch lashing or x-lashing is done by doing a basic lashing around the rim in one direction and then immediately going back over the first round of lashing in the opposite direction creating a criss-cross in the lashing reed, or ‘x’ shapes.
Gathering materials and tools for lashing
Materials and tools
- Incomplete basket with the rim set up (see How to Set Up the Rim on Your Handwoven Basket for instructions on how to prepare the rim)
- Workspace set up
- Reed shears
- Lashing reed (the size and width depends on the basket you are working on. See more below)
- Straight tipped packer (Basket Makers Catalog)
- Water tub
- Towel
Choosing a lashing reed
Lashing reed width
I typically use a 1/4″ flat-oval reed for my lashing. When I’m weaving something small I’ll use a thinner size or a round reed. Generally speaking 1/4″ flat-oval looks nice on a rim that ranges from 1/2″ wide to 1″ wide.
The size of the lashing and the size of the rim need to correspond to a certain extent in order to maintain the durability of the basket. If you have a one-inch wide rim, and use a piece of thin round reed for the lashing the rim will overpower the lashing and will strain against it, potentially causing future breakage.
Considering the balance between the width of the rim reed and the width of the lashing reed used is both for the look and for the strength of the basket.
Lashing reed type
Possible lashing reeds: flat reed, flat-oval reed, round reed, cane.
I like to use a flat-oval reed for the lashing on my baskets because I like how the rounded side of the reed looks lashed around the rim. This is purely a personal preference. Choose whichever you prefer and think will look good on your basket. You can always do a few stitches to see how a specific reed looks and pull it out if you don’t like it.
Measuring out your lashing reed
When I am measuring out the reed for the lashing I like to wrap the length around the top of the basket.
Find a piece that wraps around the top of your basket six times. This is a generalized estimate. It may be a bit longer or come out a bit too short, but it’s a good starting point.
Soak lashing reed, keeping it wet
Lashing reed will be handled roughly as you pull it through the spaces in the basket and slide it through your hands. In order to avoid cracking the reed soak it in a tub of warm water for five minutes before beginning to lash your rim.
When you are in the process of lashing your rim make sure to stop every few stitches to spray the lashing reed and the rim with the spray bottle of water to keep the reed damp. This will avoid the reed becoming ‘hairy’ and will also help in pulling the rim very tight.
Starting the lashing
Creating the starting knot
Your rim should be securely set up around the top edge of your basket with plastic clamps holding all the layers together. Using a soaked piece of lashing reed begin by tucking the lashing reed between the inner rim and the top weaver. Do this right over a stake.
Now bring the end you just tucked down in between the layers back up and around into the same space once again. Create a loop around the inner rim.
Grab on to the length of reed that is looped around the rim and pull down on the inside of the basket to tighten the loop and cinch the ‘knot’.
Then tuck the end behind the rows of weaving that go over top of the stake. You can use your straight tipped packer to lift the weaver layers away from the basket just enough to slide the end of the lashing down between them.
How to do cross-lashing
Whip stitch
The whip stitch happens between each stake in the basket. You will be catching the top row of weaving and the rim in each stitch so that they sandwich together holding everything firmly to the basket.
Do this by grasping the lashing reed with your non-dominant hand and sliding it through your fingers gently all the way to the end. The point of doing this is to keep the reed oriented the same way along the whole length so that it doesn’t twist when you create your stitch.
I typically work from left to right when doing lashing. Follow the same instructions going right to left if that seems easier for you.
Using the straight tipped packer slide the tip into space between the first and second rows of the basket to create room for the lashing reed to slide between them. You will need to do this while holding the lashing reed in your left hand.
With the correct orientation of the reed (as described above by sliding it through your hand) slide the lashing reed into space and then all the way through. Once you’ve pulled all the excess through, tighten your whipstitch by pulling on the working reed until it is tight.
Tension matters. Pull tight on the lashing reed as you work. The reed begins to shrink as it dries. If it’s not tight when it’s wet the lashing and rim become loose as it dries and becomes more vulnerable to breakage.
Continue doing this process around the rim putting one stitch into each space between the stakes of the basket.
Lashing over the overlapped ends of the rim
When you go over the joints in the rim as shown below make sure to hold the rim in place and maintain its position so that the rim sits right against the basket. Try to catch the rim joint with a stitch so that it holds it tight.
If you run out of lashing reed, or it breaks
If you accidentally run out of lashing reed before you’ve made it all the way around the rim of your basket, or if the lashing reed breaks while pulling it tight you will simply add in a new piece of reed.
Do this by undoing a few of the lashed stitches so that you have a tail long enough to push to the inside of the basket between the top and second row of weavers and then loop it around the inner rim and pull down into the wall of the basket to secure it. Just like you did for the starting knot.
Begin with a new length of lashing reed the same way you started out by sliding the end between the inner rim and the basket and looping it around and tucking it into the basket wall. Do this right next to where you left off. Then continue lashing the rim as you have been.
Back to the beginning: cross-lashing
Once you have gone around the basket doing the basic whip stitch process make sure you’ve gone into every space between stakes.
Now you will go back over what you’ve just done in the opposite direction.
It’s the same process of orienting the lashing reed so that it doesn’t get twisted as you pull it through space, creating the space between the first and second row of weaving with the straight tipped packer, and then threading the lashing through that space and pulling tight.
Go back around like this putting a stitch between each stake once again, there will now be two stitches in each space. One from the first round of whip stitches and the second that you are currently completing for the cross or ‘x’ lashing.
Ending the lashing- tying off
Make sure to keep your lashing reed and all the rim wet as you work. Pull tight on the lashing as you go. Again, a reminder that the reed shrinks as it dries. A loose rim is easily broken and looks sloppy.
To tie off the lashing and finish the rim loop it around the inner rim and pull it down into the wall of the basket to secure it. Just like you did for the starting knot. Tuck the end into the weavers in the basket wall.
Finishing steps
Allowing the basket to dry
When the rim is complete do any final shaping or molding of the basket while it is still wet. Allow the basket to dry overnight.
Signing the basket
Sign and date your basket with a waterproof pen. This is a great way to see your progress as you continue to weave baskets. Or look back to remember the time you wove your basket.
Signing Your Handwoven Baskets: Leaving a Legacy
Staining or sealing the basket
Once your basket it completely dry you have the option to stain or seal the basket.
I highly suggest at least sealing your basket with a clear finish to preserve the basket and avoid mildew and mold.
How to Protect Your Basket After Weaving
There is also the option to stain your basket with a wood stain that will change the color of your basket. If you want something darker, a wash of color or a slightly different wood tone consider staining.
Basket Stains and Sealers: Finishing Your Baskets
When you’ve completed your basket I’d love to see a photo of it. Tag me on Instagram @textileindie.
