For a complete guide to all Textile Indie’s basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
After weaving a basket and achieving the wall height you want, you will proceed with creating the rim for the basket.
For a complete list of basket terminology:
Gathering your basketry tools and materials
Tools needed
The following are the basics to start with:
- Reed cutters
- Straight tipped packer
- Box cutter
- Plastic clamps
- Spray bottle
- Water tub
Reed cutters
You can get by with strong scissors, but reed cutters are ideal – combining strength, a pointed tip, and a sharp edge.
Straight tipped packer
Like reed cutters, you can make do with a screwdriver. However, once you own a basket weaver’s straight-tipped packer you’ll wonder how you managed without it.
Basket Makers Catalog offers a number of different versions.
Box cutter
A sharp box cutter is a perfect tool for scarfing the end of the reed.
Plastic clamps
I prefer plastic clamps to metal – the plastic clamps don’t leave a mark on the reed. And with plastic, there’s no chance for rust stains.
Spray bottle
Water tub
For more details on basket-making tools and supplies, check out these posts:
Basket Weaving Tools: What You Will Need to Get Started
Beginners Guide to Basket Weaving Materials
Materials needed
I am using a 3/4″ flat reed for the basket bases demonstrated in the photos below. The width of the reed you start with will depend on what size or style of basket you are weaving.
I order reed from The Basket Makers Catalog, an online basket makers resource and supplier.
Step-by-step process to prepare a basket rim for lashing
Follow the instructions below to set up a rim on your basket.
If you would like to see the process in action, watch my YouTube video:
How to cut and tuck a basket rim
Make sure the basket reed is damp.
The stakes will be sticking up at this point.
Looking at the basket from the outside there will be some stakes in front of the last weaver and some that are behind. Using the basket shears cut the stakes that sit behind the top weaver.
These are the basket shears that I use:
Those that are in front will get folded over and tucked into the walls of the inside of the basket.
To do this fold one of the stakes over that is in front of the last weaver.
Using your basket shears cut the stake so that its length reaches down to the length of the third or fifth row inside the basket.
Now using your straight tipped packer place it down behind the weavers against the stake and gently tuck the folded part of the stake into the space created. Do this process for all in-front stakes.
Scarfing the rim reed
Using a flat oval reed that is double the size of your last weaver (typically rims run between 1/2” and 1”) whittle down the end so that there is a two-inch length of the reed that is half as thick as the rest. This is called scarfing.
Scarf reed with a sharp box cutter. Be sure to cut it away from your hand!
Start slow and take off a little at a time – in thin shavings. It’s easy to cut too deep and slice off the end of the reed. You can always shave off a little more, but you can’t put it back.
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Putting the outer rim on the basket
Clamp the end of the rim reed to the top edge of the basket (anywhere but over the handle). Clamp the reed around the top edge of each side.
You can see in the photo below how handy the plastic clamps are. If you’re a beginner, you can use more clamps to hold things in place.
The oval side of the reed should be facing out, the flat side rests against the basket.
Note: I show metal clamps in a few photos below. As mentioned above, I suggest using plastic clamps like those listed above. The metal clamps leave grooves in the reed which don’t look nice.
Do as I say, not as I do😉.
When you get to the start of the rim cut it so that it overlaps the two-inch whittled (scarfed) section.
I like to cut the reed to length and then trim the corners of the reed down a little so that it’s rounded, not just a raw straight edge.
Inserting the inner rim
Follow the same steps to place a rim reed inside the basket.
Begin the inner rim in a different spot than you did the outer rim. I usually put them on opposite ends.
Use your clamps to span both the inner and outer rim pieces, holding everything firmly in place.
The inner rim should be placed in the basket so that the rounded side of the reed is facing out and the flat side is against the basket.
Inserting seagrass in the rim
Tuck seagrass into the space between the two rim pieces.
The seagrass goes from one handle edge to the next. Cut the piece an inch longer to allow for tension. Do this for both sides of the handle.
Put another way – you will have two pieces of seagrass, one on each end of the basket.
Next step is lashing…
The next step after you’ve set up your rim is to lash it.
Two techniques to choose from are basic lashing and cross-stitch lashing; I have a tutorial for both:
For a complete guide to all Textile Indie’s basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
More basket weaving techniques:
How to Cut Reed for Basket Stakes
How to Weave an Open Basket Base
How to Weave a Closed Basket Base
Twining a Basket Base: Creating a Stable Basket
Weaving Techniques for Basket Making
How to do Basic Lashing on a Basket Rim
How to do Cross-Stitch or X-Lashing on a Basket Rim
Signing Your Handwoven Baskets: Leaving a Legacy
How to Protect Your Handwoven Baskets from Mold
Basket Stains and Sealers: Finishing Your Basket
Basket-of-the Month Club
Check out Textile Indie’s self-paced basket club if you want to learn to weave beautiful baskets. Twelve different basket designs with video and written instructional support to learn foundational basketry techniques. Over the course of twelve months, you will receive one basket pattern with supporting instructional material. Start at basket one and weave all twelve, or stay as long as you want.
