Here I have a step-by-step guide taking you through how to weave a rectangular basket with a handle.
This is a simple basket pattern, suitable for a beginner. It’s based on my very first basket. I hope you are inspired to try this project.
Related post:
If any of the terms are confusing, be sure to take a look at the…
For a complete guide to all Textile Indie’s basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
Materials for a handled basket
The total quantity of materials
Calculations of feet needed per basket (this is an estimation and may differ depending on the tension used while weaving):
Materials list for market basket
| Reed | Amount |
| Flat reed | 43 ft of 3/4″ |
| Flat-oval reed | 78 ft of 1/4″ |
| Flat-oval reed (rim) | 6 ft of 5/8″ |
| Seagrass | 23 ft of #3 |
| Round reed | 9 ft |
| “D” handle | 8″ x 12″ |
The basket pattern
- 8”x12” “D” Handle (See Beginners Guide to Basket Handles)
- 8 stakes from 3/4” flat reed @ 30” long each
(8” bottom + 8” wall x 2 + 6” for stakes to fold over top = 30″) - 7 stakes from 3/4” flat reed @ 32” long
(10” bottom + 8” wall x 2 + 6” for stakes to fold over the top) - 1/4” flat oval reed for weavers
- 3/4” flat reed for one row – weaver
- 5/8” flat oval reed for rim
- Seagrass #3
- Round reed
Where to buy basket materials
Basket Makers Catalog
Etsy shop
Check out my Etsy shop for a basket kit with all the materials to make this basket.
Resource page
See all my favorite basket weaving resources here.
Do you want the best resources, tools, and products for fiber artists?
Every other Friday, I send an email chock full of fiber craft inspiration for you to explore.
Each issue focuses on one fiber art skill – spinning, dyeing, basket weaving…
Set up your basket workspace
Organizing your workspace before you start to weave will make the process more enjoyable.
Basket weaving is a wet craft! Before weaving, lay a towel down on your work surface. This will catch any excess water as you work with the damp/wet reed.
Set another towel to one side and place a bin of warm water on top. You’ll soak the reed in the tub.
Finally, arrange your tools, so they’re easy to reach.
For details on the tools I’m using, visit Basket Weaving Tools: What you Need to Get Started.
I’ve put together a basic basket weaving tool kit in my Etsy shop.
Prepare the reed
Cut the stakes
See my post: How to Cut Reed for Basket Stakes for more details.
8 stakes from 3/4” flat reed @ 30” long each
(8” bottom + 8” wall x 2 + 6” for stakes to fold over top = 30″)
7 stakes from 3/4” flat reed @ 32” long
(10” bottom + 8” wall x 2 + 6” for stakes to fold over the top)
Mark centers
Mark the center point on all the stakes, and make the marking on the wrong side of the reed.
The wrong side of the reed is rougher and has more “hairs” coming off of it. The right side feels and looks smoother.
Here I’m marking the center point with a pencil. See the tiny hatch mark on the reed.
Video series
Soak the reed
Place the stakes in water to soak for a few minutes.
Laying out the base
Along with the “D” handle, lay out the stakes perpendicular to the handle, alternating one under one over.
The center mark should be facing up and centered on the handle. Place a stake weight on the stakes to hold them in place.
Related post:
How to Weave an Open Base Basket
Using a tape measure, evenly space the stakes on and under the handle.
Weave the stakes going the other direction. Start at the handle and work out using the plain weave under one over one method.
Use a tape measure to space the stakes in the base evenly. Check your final base measurement – it should be 8″ by 12″.
Twining the base
Twining the base holds the stakes in place as you weave the walls.
Related post:
Twining the Base: Creating a Stable Basket
Make sure everything is damp. Dip the base into your tub of water, or thoroughly spray it down.
Upsetting the stakes
Upset all of the stakes around the base of the basket. Gently fold the stakes completely, creating a crease, but don’t force the reed, or it will crack the reed.
It’s essential to keep the reed very damp at this stage. Creasing reed can cause cracking and even breakage.
Weaving
Using your 1/4″ flat-oval reed, anchor the reed end with a clamp on the outside of a weaver.
Start with at least four stakes before the corner. Weave this around the basket, folding the reed at each corner to create a nice angled corner to work with.
Create a nice crisp corner by folding and making a crease in the weaver
Add one clamp to each basket side to hold the working weaver in place.
When you return to the starting point, unclamp the end of the weaver while holding it securely, so it doesn’t pop out of place.
Clamp it again five stakes away. Weave the working reed to overlap the reed’s starting edge. It should overlap on four stakes, ending behind so that it is hidden behind the stake.
Overlap the beginning of weaver with the end of the weaver on four stakes, ending behind the fourth reed.
Cut the reed to the right outside edge of the stake.
Continue building the basket’s walls using your chosen weaving technique or pattern. Pack down the reed as you go so that the weaving is tight.
Keep the corners neat and tight by creating a crease in the working reed.
As on the first row, overlap the end of the working reed and the beginning of the working reed on four stakes.
Tuck the reed behind a stake, in this case, the handle.
Continue to build the basket walls.
As you weave, make sure all the stakes and weavers stay damp.
As you work, pack the rows down. The reed shrinks a bit as it dries, so loose rows will mean gaps in the basket walls and possibly breakage.
Adding a seagrass detail
When you near the top of your basket, add a few rows of seagrass. The seagrass needs to be tucked behind one stake and then clipped behind that same stake when you get back to the beginning.
Last weaver
When the basket walls reach your desired height, weave one last row using a flat reed half the width of your intended rim reed.
(For instance, if you use a 1/2″ flat oval reed for your rim, use a 1/4″ reed as your final weaver).
Cut and tuck
Again, make sure everything is damp.
The stakes will be sticking up at this point.
Looking at the basket from the outside, there will be some stakes in front of the last weaver and some behind.
Cut the stakes behind the top weaver flush with the edge using the basket shears.
The front stakes get folded over and tucked into the walls of the inside of the basket.
To do this, fold one of the front stakes over. Using your basket shears, cut the stake so that its length reaches the length of the third or fifth row inside the basket.
Using your awl (straight-tipped packer), tuck the stake down behind the weavers against the stake and gently tuck the folded part into the space created.
Do this process for all in-front stakes.
Prepare the rim
Using a flat-oval reed that is double the size of your last weaver, whittle down the end so that there is a two-inch length of reed that is half as thick as the rest.
Whittling down the end is called scarfing.
Clamp the end of the rim reed to the top edge of the basket (anywhere but over the handle). Clamp the reed around the top edge of the basket about every 5 inches.
When you get to the start of the rim, cut it so that it overlaps the two-inch whittled section. I like to cut it and then trim the corners of the reed down a little so that it’s rounded, not just a raw straight edge.
Follow the same steps to place a rim reed inside the basket.
Don’t put the end of this part of the rim in the same place as the first one. I usually put them on opposite ends.
Clamp so that the clamps span both the rim reeds and the basket body between.
Tuck seagrass into the space between the two rim pieces.
Start at the handle’s edge and place it until it reaches the edge of the handle on the other side.
Do this on both sides of the handle.
Lashing the rim
Grab your lashing reed, and let’s add a basic lashing whipstitch.
Related post:
How to Do Basic Lashing on a Basket Rim
Make sure to keep your lashing reed and all the rim wet as you work. Pull tight on the lashing as you go.
Again, a reminder that the reed shrinks as it dries. A loose rim is easily broken and looks sloppy.
When the rim is complete, do any final shaping or molding of the basket while it is still wet. Allow the basket to dry overnight.
Finishing your handled basket
Sign and date the bottom of the basket using a Sharpie or other permanent marker.
I love doing this because I can look back at when I made my baskets, and when I give them as gifts, it’s a stamp of “made with love, especially for you, from me” sort of thing.
Related post:
Signing Your Handwoven Baskets: Leaving a Legacy
Use a water-based stain or sealer and apply it to the basket. The sealer protects the basket and/or alters the shade of the reed.
Apply and allow to dry according to manufactures instructions.
Related post:
Basket Stains and Sealers: Finishing Your Basket
Here is the final basket…
These are the basic instructions for weaving a gathering-style reed basket. Follow these steps to create most any open bottom rectangular or square basket.
Basket-of-the Month Club
Check out Textile Indie’s self-paced basket club if you want to learn to weave beautiful baskets.
For a complete guide to all Textile Indie’s basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
