One of the most important steps in creating beautiful embroidered designs is accurately transferring your pattern onto the fabric.
Having crisp, precise lines to follow makes the embroidery process much easier and more enjoyable.
There are many different methods for transferring embroidery patterns, from traditional techniques like tracing and prick-and-pounce to modern conveniences like iron-on pens and printable stabilizers.
Each has its advantages and works better for specific applications.
In this post, I’ll share helpful tips I’ve learned along the way and explain which methods work best for different projects.
By the end, you’ll have a comprehensive guide to refer to whenever you need to transfer an embroidery pattern.
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Tracing methods
Light source
When transferring embroidery patterns, having a bright light source behind your fabric is key to clearly seeing the design through the material.
The two most common options are using a lightbox or a sunny window.
Lightbox
A lightbox is a flat box or tablet containing a bright light, usually LED, that provides a backlit surface to place your pattern and fabric for tracing.
Lightboxes come in various sizes and styles, from small portable units to larger tabletop models.
You can make a temporary light table by separating the sections of a dining table and setting a lamp underneath. Put a piece of plexiglass or other clear material over the gap, and voila, you have a light table.
When to use a lightbox
A lightbox is ideal when:
- You need to transfer patterns frequently or in large quantities
- You are working with shaded or thicker fabrics that are hard to see through
- You want to trace at night or in a room without bright natural light
- You need a large, evenly lit surface for tracing large designs
Lightbox tips
Test your fabric on the lightbox first to ensure the design shows clearly.
Secure your pattern and fabric with tape or magnets to prevent shifting.
Use the dimmest light setting that allows you to see clearly to avoid eye strain.
Place the lightbox on a flat, comfortable work surface at a height that allows you to trace without hunching.
Window
A bright, sunny window can work well as a makeshift lightbox.
Tape your pattern to the window, then secure your fabric over it. Trace the design onto the fabric using an appropriate marker (see marker section below).
When to use a window
Tracing on a window works best when:
- You only need to transfer patterns occasionally
- You are working with lightweight, light-colored fabrics
- You have a large enough window to accommodate your fabric and pattern
- It is a bright, sunny day
Window tips
Choose a window that gets indirect sunlight to avoid glare and shadows.
Tape the corners of your fabric to the window to keep it taut and wrinkle-free.
Stand or sit comfortably to avoid neck and back strain while tracing.
Transfer paper
Transfer paper, also known as dressmaker’s carbon or tracing paper, is a particular type of paper coated with a waxy pigment on one side.
It comes in various colors, like white, yellow, blue, and red.
To use it, you place the transfer paper coated side down on your fabric, lay your pattern on top, and trace over the lines with a stylus, empty ballpoint pen, or pencil.
The pressure from tracing transfers the pigment onto the fabric, creating a temporary outline of your design that can be embroidered.
Transfer paper is an easy, low-tech option for embroiderers of all skill levels. It produces temporary pattern lines on nearly any fabric without needing special equipment.
When to use transfer paper
Transfer paper is a versatile method suitable for various fabrics and projects:
- It works well on both light and dark fabrics. For visibility, use light-colored transfer paper on dark fabric and darker paper on light fabric
- It’s ideal for thicker, textured, or non-transparent fabrics that are difficult to trace on, such as felt, denim, or canvas
- It can be used on unconventional embroidery surfaces like wood or leather
Transfer paper tips
Always test on a fabric scrap first to ensure the marks are visible and to determine how much pressure to apply.
Secure the layers well with pins, tape, or binder clips to prevent shifting while tracing.
For delicate or stretchy fabrics, place a hard surface underneath to provide support and prevent distortion.
Trace carefully and accurately, as mistakes will transfer to the fabric. Retrace if lines are too faint.
Clean the fabric gently with a soft brush if any pigment smudges remain after stitching.
Store transfer paper in a cool, dry place. Sheets can be reused until the coating wears off.
In my experience, the transfer method works best for simple designs. I tried this method on my sloth project (because it was on brown fabric) and had trouble getting the details of the face right. The lines were just too thick and undefined.
Saral Wax Free Transfer Paper (Blick Art Supply)
Tracing Paper
Tracing paper is a thin, semi-transparent paper that layers embroidery patterns onto fabric.
The method involves tracing your design onto the paper, then basting or pinning the paper to your fabric and stitching through both layers.
After stitching, carefully tear away the paper to reveal the embroidered design on the fabric.
The tracing paper method is a classic technique that embroiderers and quilters have used for generations.
It’s a reliable way to transfer even the most intricate patterns onto any fabric without worrying about markings showing through.
When to use tracing paper
Use the tracing paper method when:
- Working with delicate, textured, or napped fabrics like velvet or wool that are hard to mark with pens.
- For dark fabrics where transfer paper or pens may not show up clearly
- When you want to avoid marking your fabric with any pen or pigment
- For complex designs with many lines and details that would be difficult to trace accurately onto fabric
- When you need a quick, simple transfer method without any special tools
In hindsight, on my sloth design, I would use the transfer paper for the simple sections of the design – the leaves and branches, and a piece of tracing paper to stitch the outline of the sloth details accurately.
Tracing paper tips
Choose a lightweight tracing paper that you can see through easily and tear away cleanly. Specialty tissue papers like DMC Embroidery Transfer Paper work well.
Use a soft pencil or water-soluble pen to trace the design onto the paper.
Secure the tracing paper to your fabric with pins, basting stitches, or a temporary spray adhesive. Make sure it lies flat and smooth.
Shorten your stitch length slightly to perforate the paper more, making it easier to remove later.
After stitching, gently tear the paper away in small sections. Use tweezers to remove any stubborn bits stuck under the stitches.
Heat method
The heat method involves using special tools or materials that transfer embroidery patterns onto fabric with heat, typically from an iron.
This category includes heat transfer pens and pencils, heat erasable markers, and pre-printed iron-on patterns.
Heat transfer pen or pencil
A heat transfer pen or pencil looks similar to a regular writing tool but contains a special ink that turns into an outline when heated.
Trace your pattern onto tracing paper or regular paper using the heat transfer pen or pencil.
Place the traced design ink-side down onto your fabric, then press with a hot iron to transfer the pattern.
When to use a heat transfer pen
Heat transfer pens and pencils are a good choice when:
- You need a quick, easy method for transferring simple designs
- You are working with light-colored fabrics that can take the heat of an iron
- You want permanent pattern lines that won’t wash away or fade over time
Heat transfer pen tips
Always trace the design in reverse, as it will transfer in a mirror image onto the fabric.
Preheat your fabric and use the appropriate iron setting for the material to avoid scorching.
Work quickly and carefully when ironing to prevent the design from shifting or smudging.
Test on a fabric scrap first to ensure the transferred lines are clear and the fabric can withstand the heat.
Sulky Iron-On Transfer Pens (Etsy)
These pens come in black, brown, yellow, red, and blue.
Heat erasable marker or pen
A heat-erasable marker, such as the popular Pilot Frixion pen, uses special ink that disappears when exposed to heat.
Trace your pattern directly onto the fabric using the marker, then embroider over the lines. Once finished, simply iron over the design to erase any visible marker lines.
When to use a heat erasable marker
Heat erasable markers are useful when:
- You want to draw directly on the fabric without transferring it from paper
- You need a temporary pattern that can be easily removed after stitching
- You are working with light-colored, heat-tolerant fabrics
Heat erasable marker tips
Test on a fabric swatch first to ensure the ink disappears completely with heat.
Avoid using steam or getting the marked fabric wet before stitching, as this can cause the ink to fade prematurely.
Press carefully with the iron to erase the lines, avoiding excessive heat that could damage the fabric or floss.
These pens from Cute Little Hoop (on Etsy) are adorable
Iron-on patterns
Pre-printed iron-on embroidery patterns are commercially available designs that can be transferred directly onto fabric using an iron.
These patterns are printed on special heat-activated paper.
To use them, trim around the design, place it ink-side down on your fabric, cover it with a pressing cloth, and iron according to the package instructions until the pattern transfers.
When to use an iron-on pattern
Iron-on patterns are convenient when:
- You want to use a pre-made design rather than creating your own
- You need a quick, foolproof transfer method suitable for beginners
- You are working with light-colored, smooth fabrics that can handle the heat
Iron-on tips
Pre-wash and iron your fabric before transferring the pattern to ensure a smooth surface.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully for best results, noting the recommended iron settings and pressing time.
Let the transferred design cool completely before moving the fabric or stitching.
My book of mandala designs includes one iron-on transfer page per design. The designs are pretty simple and transfer beautifully. I love this feature of the book. According to the directions, the iron-on will work for several transfers.
Of course, I can save the spent patterns and use a different transfer method if I want to use the designs again.
Prick and pounce
The prick-and-pounce method is a traditional technique for transferring embroidery patterns that date back centuries.
It involves pricking small holes along the lines of your pattern with a needle or pin, then placing the perforated pattern on your fabric and dabbing powdered chalk or pigment through the holes to create a dotted outline on the fabric.
To use this method, first trace or draw your design onto thin paper or tracing paper.
Place the pattern on a soft surface like a folded towel or corkboard, then use a fine needle tool, push pin, or even a sewing needle to prick closely spaced holes along the lines of the design.
Secure the pricked pattern on your fabric with pins or tape.
Dip a felt dauber or powder puff into fabric chalk or pounce powder and tap it gently over the holes to transfer the dotted lines onto the fabric.
Finally, carefully lift the pattern to reveal the transferred design, which can be embroidered.
When to use the prick and pounce method
The prick-and-pounce method works well when:
- You need to transfer a detailed or intricate design with precision
- You are working with thick, textured, or napped fabrics that are difficult to trace on
- You want to reuse the same pattern multiple times, as the pricked paper can be used over and over
- You prefer a low-tech, traditional transfer method without any special tools or materials
Prick and pounce tips
- For best results, use a sharp needle or pin to create small, closely spaced holes. A special pricking tool or pounce wheel can make the process faster and more accurate.
- Work on a soft surface to let the pin pierce the paper cleanly without creating large tears.
- Choose a pounce powder that contrasts nicely with your fabric color. Powdered chalk, charcoal, or cinnamon can work well. Test on a fabric scrap first.
- Apply the powder with a light tapping motion using a soft pouncer or velvet dauber. Avoid rubbing or smearing the powder, as this can blur the lines.
- Work in sections and secure the pattern well for larger designs to avoid shifting.
- After transferring the design, gently blow or brush away any excess powder. Avoid getting the fabric wet until after stitching, as this can smudge the lines.
While the prick-and-pounce method requires patience and precision, it can produce beautifully clear, accurate pattern transfers on virtually any fabric.
I can’t see myself using this method; it sounds messy and tedious. I would love to hear about your experience if you try this.
If you want to give it a try, Lake Land Studio has a mini kit
Mini Pounce Kit
Washable stabilizer
A washable stabilizer, also known as a water-soluble stabilizer, is a special type of embroidery backing that completely dissolves when immersed in water.
It provides temporary support during embroidery, keeping the fabric stable and preventing designs from puckering or distorting.
Once the stitching is complete, the stabilizer can be removed by soaking the project in water, leaving no traces behind.
Washable stabilizers come in several forms, including lightweight tear-away sheets, adhesive tear-away sheets, and thicker plastic-like topping films.
They are typically clear or white.
When to use washable stabilizer
Washable stabilizer is ideal for:
- Delicate fabrics that can’t withstand the removal of conventional tear-away or cut-away stabilizers, such as organza, batiste, or fine linens
- Freestanding lace designs or cutwork embroidery where the stabilizer needs to be removed entirely
- Achieving a softer hand and drape on the back of the embroidery, especially for garments
- Topping on textured fabrics like terry cloth, fleece, or high-pile fabrics to keep stitches from sinking in (use in addition to standard backing)
- Small areas where removing excess cut-away or tear-away stabilizer would be difficult
Stabilizer tips
- Always test the washable stabilizer on a fabric swatch first to ensure it dissolves completely without damaging the fabric or leaving residue
- Don’t use a washable stabilizer if the fabric can’t get wet – the project must be soaked to remove the stabilizer
- Use enough layers of washable stabilizer to adequately support the design – dense designs may require two or more layers
- Avoid ironing directly on the stabilizer as the heat may fuse it to the fabric – use a press cloth if needed
- After stitching, trim away as much excess stabilizer as possible before soaking to speed up dissolution
- Soak the project in warm (not hot) water, allowing the stabilizer to dissolve completely; rinse well and lay flat to dry
- For freestanding lace, use a stiffer washable stabilizer and don’t rinse all of it away to maintain the lace’s shape and structure
- If small bits of stabilizer remain after soaking, use a soft toothbrush to remove them under running water gently. Be very careful not to rough up the texture of the fabric
- Store unused, washable stabilizer in a cool, dry place in an airtight container to prevent moisture damage
Pens
Water erasable pens
Water erasable pens contain special ink that can be removed from fabric using plain water.
They usually come in blue and white, with fine or thick tips.
The blue pens show up well on lighter fabrics, while the white pens are good for marking darker materials.
To use, draw, or trace your embroidery design directly onto the fabric. Stitch over the lines, then remove the marks by soaking the fabric in cold water or dabbing with a damp cloth until the ink dissolves.
When to use a water erasable pen
- For designs that need to be marked precisely on the fabric before stitching
- On light to medium-colored fabrics, the ink will show up on
- For projects that will be completed relatively quickly, within a few weeks
Water erasable pen tips
- Always test on a fabric scrap first to ensure the marks wash out completely
- Avoid ironing or exposing to heat before washing out the marks, as this can set the ink
- Use cold water and dab stubborn spots to remove marks
- Marks left more than a few weeks may become harder to erase
Frixion pens
Frixion pens contain a special thermo-sensitive gel ink that disappears when exposed to heat from an iron or hair dryer. The pens write smoothly without skipping, making the marks easy to see. However, the ink can leave a “ghost” mark on some fabrics even after ironing.
The marks may also reappear if the fabric gets very cold. Frixion pens come in a variety of colors and tip sizes. To use them, draw or trace the design on the fabric, stitch, and iron to erase the lines.
When to use a Frixion pen
- For quick temporary pattern marking that will be ironed away
- On light to medium fabrics that can withstand the heat of an iron
- For projects that won’t be subjected to cold temperatures
Frixion pen tips
- Test carefully on a fabric swatch first, as ghosting or reappearance of marks can occur
- Press with a hot iron to fully erase marks, but don’t use steam
- Avoid using on delicate fabrics that can’t take direct heat
- It is not recommended for quilts or heirloom projects that need to last
Micron pens
Micron pens have archival-quality permanent ink that doesn’t bleed or fade.
They come in various tip sizes, down to very fine 005. The ink is chemically stable, waterproof, and fade-resistant.
Micron pens write smoothly on fabric, and the marks are permanent.
To use a Micron pen, trace the design lightly onto the fabric. The ink will not wash out, so the embroidery needs to cover the lines entirely.
When to use a Micron pen
Micron pen tips
- Use a light touch and the finest tip size when marking
- Draw guidelines rather than solid lines to minimize ink
- Choose a color that will blend with the embroidery floss
- The marks are permanent, so make sure stitching fully covers them
This is my favorite method if appropriate for the project.
I keep a set of Micron pens in the house for paper art, scrapbooking, and signing art projects. This is the fastest and most accurate pattern transfer method and combines well with the lightbox or window method.
Sewline Duo pens
Sewline Duo pens have a water-soluble blue tip and an air-soluble purple tip in one marker.
The blue ink washes away with water, while the purple ink disappears after about 24-72 hours of air exposure. This allows you to make temporary marks that vanish on their own or with water.
When to use a Sewline Duo pen
- For quick embroidery projects that will be stitched within a day or two
- To make temporary guidelines that don’t need to be washed out
- On light and medium-colored fabrics
Sewline Duo pen tips
- Use the purple end for very temporary marks and the blue for longer-lasting ones
- Avoid using purple air-soluble ink on large or complex designs
- The blue ink may need to be washed out if marks remain after stitching
Sewline Duo Fine Marker and Erase Pencil (Etsy)
Disappearing ink pens
Disappearing ink pens contain a special ink that fades away and becomes invisible when exposed to air.
Depending on the pen, the marks last from a few hours to a few days. The ink may reappear temporarily when exposed to cold.
When to use disappearing ink
- For quick transfer of designs that will be stitched right away
- On light-colored fabrics where the marks can be seen
- For temporary guidelines that don’t need to be washed out
Disappearing ink tips
- Test on fabric first to see how long the marks last before fading
- Use the blue water-soluble tip of a dual pen for longer-lasting marks
- Marks may return briefly if the fabric gets very cold but should fade again
- It is not ideal for large, complex designs that take more than a day or two
With this method, it’s important to “know thyself.” I would never use ink that fades with time.
I’m a “start a 1000 projects and circle back to (eventually) finish them” kind of maker.
One year, for Easter, I (almost) made matching outfits for Brittany, Cassidy, and Bailey. Fortunately, they were slow growers, and the outfits still fit when I finished them the following year.😏
I will definitely try one for the small areas of embroidery that I’m working on right at the moment.
Tips for transfer success
Choosing the right method
Light-colored, lightweight fabrics
For thin, light-colored fabrics like cotton, linen, or very light denim, you have several good options:
- Tracing the pattern using a light source (window or lightbox) and a water-soluble pen or pencil works well since the design will show through the fabric. This allows you to draw directly on the fabric.
- Heat transfer pens/pencils are another option. Trace the reversed design onto tracing paper, then iron it onto the fabric to transfer. Make sure to test on a fabric scrap first.
- Washable stabilizers like Sulky Fabri-Solvy or DMC Magic Paper can be printed, traced on, adhered to the fabric, stitched through, and dissolved. They are great for detailed designs.
Dark or thick fabrics
Tracing doesn’t work well on dark, heavy, or textured fabrics like denim, felt, velvet, etc. Better options include:
- Use light-colored dressmaker’s carbon paper. Place the carbon between the pattern and fabric, then trace firmly to transfer the lines.
- The prick-and-pounce method involves using a pin to poke holes in the pattern and dabbing powder through to mark the fabric.
- Stitching through tissue or tracing paper basted to the fabric and then tearing the paper away works well for textured fabrics.
- Washable stabilizers can also be helpful for thick or dark fabrics
Specialty fabrics
- Use a washable stabilizer or tissue paper method for stretchy knits to avoid distorting the fabric.
- Felt and fleece can be tricky. Try a heat transfer pen, carbon paper in a contrasting color, or stitching through tissue paper.
- First, test methods on a swatch for delicate silks or wools prone to marking. A washable stabilizer is often the safest bet. Again, be sure your fabric can get wet.
Tracing accurately
Tracing the pattern accurately ensures your embroidery turns out as intended.
Keep these tips in mind:
- Use a sharp pencil, fine-tipped marker, or pen that won’t bleed or leave heavy marks on the fabric.
- Take your time and work slowly, carefully following the lines of the original design.
- If using a light source, make sure it’s bright enough to see the pattern through the fabric. Adjust the brightness or reposition as needed.
- When tracing with transfer paper, use firm pressure to ensure the design transfers completely. Go over any faint lines a second time.
- If drawing freehand, use guidelines and measurements to keep the design proportional and centered on the fabric.
Taking the time to trace accurately will save you frustration later and result in a more professional-looking finished product.
Testing first is especially important when using a new transfer method or working with delicate, expensive, or hard-to-replace fabrics. It’s better to make mistakes on a small swatch than on the lace bodice of your wedding gown!😮